A grill restaurant it might be, but veggies get a decent look-in. Young chefs wear iconic Mangal II merch a ‘ Love Kebabs Hate Racism ’ shirtĮverything pings out of the cosy open kitchen, where young chefs wear iconic Mangal II merch a ‘Love Kebabs Hate Racism ’ shirt. A cull yaw kofte is next, a meaty nod to Mangal II’s menu of old, but accessorised with the spoils of Sertaç’s Nordic tutelage in a sweet splodge of grilled apple. To slather cultured kaymak butter on the already oozing bread seems pure sluttishness, but we do it anyway. Consider the fabulously oily, palm-sized sourdough pide. Rather than ushering in a wave of foodie show-offs and giddy TikTokkers, the clientele remains largely the same as before, and the food – which was always great – more refined, but still indulgent. The lack of fanfare surrounding the makeover is to Mangal’s credit. ![]() There was also a lowkey refit a blue and white paint job, the flashy red sign replaced by a sleek sans serif logo and a suitably wry poster by local artist Babak Ganjei directing punters to the loo. With no great fuss, Mangal II became a much more bougie proposition. Ali handed the grill to another son, Sertaç, who had been cheffing in Copenhagen at Noma’s sister spot 108. Despite their reputation as Hackney’s kings of kofte, Mangal II was in trouble due to Covid closures and worrying debts. In 2021 there was yet another change of tack. In 2012 Ferhat Dirik – son of Ali – made Mangal II’s Twitter the sassiest social media account you ever scrolled slagging off Mumford and Sons one minute and brutally baiting local hipsters the next, all while harbouring a vicious vendetta against the neighbouring Nando's. Though Mangal II’s food remained traditional for over two decades, other things did not. ![]() Once I sat so close to Diane Abbott I could have helped myself to her hummus. A bastion of value slap-up feasts and home to hungover group gatherings in rapidly gentrifying Dalston, the great and the good and the absolutely ravenous of East London flocked in their droves. Owner Ali Dirik made it London’s most-loved Turkish grill, famous for juicy lamb chops, bountiful borek and lashings of squeaky hellim cheese. The first restaurant brought charcoal ocakbasi cooking from Istanbul to the UK in the early 1990s and a few years later came the larger, loftier Mangal II. The evolution of the mighty Mangal II has become London food lore.
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